I have an 03 TTR 125L for sale.  Runs great!  Has new rear tire and new plastics.  Great beginner’s bike!

Comes with old plastic too so if you you are buying it for a beginner, they can dump the bike and not scratch up the new stuff.

Call Joe at 828.337.4009 or email if you are interested.  The price is firm and I feel this bike is worth it considering its condition.

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This is a customer’s bike that had some serious carburetor issues.  It was having trouble starting and coming off an idle, but eventually got so bad it would not even run.  I went into the carb several times and did find some clogged orifices that once cleaned, caused the bike to run a little better, but the main problem was 2-fold:

• Bent Needle.
• Bad gas.

The WR comes with a non-adjustable needle, so I removed the bent one and installed a new yz-style adjustable needle.

It’s surprising how fuel can go bad so quickly and can even come from the pump bad.  Also, there was no “bad-fuel” smell when smelling the fuel in the tank, but I am certain it was bad because after correcting the needle and jetting, I installed my YZ tank onto the WR with fresh race fuel and it ran perfect, but when switching back to the WR tank, would not even run.

So after draining the fuel, re-jetting, and installing some new fork seals, this bike is ready to go.

Here is the jetting that worked well for me:

Elevation:  2500 ft.
Main:            175
Pilot:               42
Leak:               40  (this helps increase the initial squirt of fuel from the accelerator pump, and decrease bogging)
Air Screw:     2.0 turns out.

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A customer brought this bike in for repair because it is running terribly rich and fouling plugs.  I immediately assumed it was a carburetor issue, and I did find some clogged jets and orifices in the carb that did contribute to the rich condition, but soon found out it was something more than just the carb.  The amount of black goo coming out of this bike was more than I have ever seen on a 2 stroke.  So bad in fact that the rear tire looked like someone had sprayed it down with “wet-tire”.  Also, while testing the carb work I had done, the bike started smoking something fierce with the smoke being white and smelling like burning oil and not the typical blue premix smoke.  After doing some research on thumpertalk.com the symptoms lead me to believe it was a failing right-side crank seal.

Fortunately, for this repair you do not have to split the cases.  The clutch, water pump, primary gear and a few other misc. stuff must be removed, but nothing too complicated.  Of course, with this being a 24 yr. old bike, any disturbed gasket had to be replaced.

With the new seal installed, the problem is corrected.  There is still a lot of residual goo coming out of the pipe just from the old rich condition, but the bike does not foul plugs anymore and runs and idles the way it was meant to be.

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I am waiting on parts for the savage shown in the previous post, so I have decided to put a little time and money into rebuilding this 96 CR125 motor and putting it up for sale as a shifter kart motor.  The motor came from a bike that I bought and decided to part out.

The bore is stock and the cylinder still had the cross-hatches in it, so I re-honed it and installed a new piston and gasket kit.  These have been going for a lot on ebay so hopefully it will be worth the time, money, and effort I have put into rebuilding and cleaning it.

Update 5/4/10:  I sold the Motor.  Thanks to all who were interested.

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