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Here are some rear sets that a customer wanted powder coated.  We decided to go with flat black.  He also wanted to have the fasteners coated.  I took a small piece of steel plate and drilled and tapped threads into it so I could thread the bolts and screws into the steel and have them stay put while they were sandblasted, coated, and baked.  When coating aluminum, it is important that the item be “de-gassed” prior to applying the powder.  Aluminum is more porous than steel and thus grease and oils tend to hide out in these small orifices.  Essentially, by cooking the items after sandblasting but before applying the powder allows the oil and grease to be cooked out, however it must then be sandblasted again. So the process goes as such:

• Sandblast
• Bake (de-gas)
• Sandblast
• Spray with iron phosphate and let dry
• Coat with powder
• Bake

You can see the final product in the pictures.  This process took me a little over an hour, and greatly enhances the look of these rear sets.  Contact Joe @ 828.337.4009 if you are interested in getting some parts coated.

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This 94 RM 125 had a serious problem of water getting into the oil.  I pulled the clutch cover and the transmission fluid in the gear box looked like pepto-bismol.  I assumed the water pump seal was to blame, and I was correct.  Once the seal was removed, it was evident it was leaking because the 2 bearings behind the seal were rusted and seized.  These bearings should never be in contact with water unless the seal is leaking.

With the installation of the new seal and bearings, the bike was ready to go.

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I have been really busy lately working on bikes and I have been neglecting this site.  I have a lot of new material that needs to be uploaded, but I currently do not have the time to post it all.  I will update soon.

Also, I have decided to disable the comments section since the majority of all comments were spam.  If you would like to contact me, please call or email.
That’s it for now, were off to Durhamtown to check out the new pro track for the Labor Day weekend!

-Joe

Here is a customers bike that has some clutch problems.  It started out as just some noise, but then developed into some more serious problems and even some breakage.  Upon inspection of the clutch basket, hub, and pressure plate, it was obvious that they all needed replacing.  If you have ever priced these clutch components, you know how expensive they can be.  Before bringing the bike to me, the customer had taken it to a local shop and received an estimate of approximately $1200.  I was able to replace all of the clutch assembly, and even upgrade the clutch basket to a forged wiseco basket for less than half of that estimate!

Look at the pics below and notice in the 3rd and 4th picture you can see the notches in the original basket.  When they wear this much, clutch engagement becomes rough and choppy.

The 5th and 6th pictures show the wear to the inner clutch hub.  This part also develops notches from the steel plates in the clutch stack.  There is also a very noticeable trough cut into the edge of the hub.  Compare it to the new hub in pic 7.

Images 8,9, and 10 show the wear on the old pressure plate compared to the new one.  Again, notice the trough cut into the outer edge.

In order to install any new aftermarket clutch basket such as hinson, barnett, wiseco, etc., you must remove the original primary gear and kick start gear and install them onto the new basket.  This can be slightly time consuming.  The original rivets must be drilled and removed, then the backing plate can be gently pried off.  The rubber cushions have to be re-used also, so pay attention to their orientation, it is easy to reverse them.  The kick start gear must be pressed off.  This can be done in a vice with a socket and a section of pipe.  To install this gear on the new basket, the simplest way is to put the gear in the freezer and the basket in the oven both for about 15-20 mins.  If you can do it fast enough, it will almost drop in.
Once you have the gears installed, and the backing plate screws are torqued to the proper specs with loc-tite, you can start putting it all back together.  New clutch friction plates must be soaked in oil prior to installation.  Refer to your manual for re-assembly if you forget where any parts go.

With the new clutch installed, it now engages smooth and there is no more noise.  The lever pull feels like a hydraulic clutch instead of a cable-operated one.

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